Love having a fireplace but the house doesn’t come with one? Well, you can always make a DIY faux fireplace.
Firstly, draw up your fireplace plan using the IKEA Home Planning Tool.
I chose the wall cabinets for their height.
After getting your cabinets, assemble them according to plan — two narrow cabinets (40cm) for the sides and the wider one (60cm) for the middle. The larger cabinet is where the “fire” goes.
My initial project used the HÄGGEBY doors. I later changed it to the SÄVEDAL door.
Turn the cabinets upside down and screw the CAPITA legs into place. After that, you can stand them up again.
You can also connect the individual cabinets together with screws. Screw in through the dowel holes from one cabinet to another. Make sure to get screws that are not too long, in order not the puncture through to the inside of the adjoining cabinet.
Fix the drawer into the wider cabinet to create the bridge.
Now that you’ve got the structure done, place the 80cm UTRUSTA shelves in the cavity of the fireplace. These are to hide the dowel holes on the sides.
Place the shelves upright, against the left and right sides of the cabinet. If you want, you can fix them with double sided tape or similar.
For the mantel top, I placed a wooden board I bought from Amazon.com, which I got rather cheaply. You could also use the IKEA cover panels or countertops for this purpose.
Lastly, the back of the fireplace.
With SÄVEDAL doors and fronts
You can design the back wall of the fireplace any way you wish. I mostly used a thin chipboard and papered it with a 3D peel and stick brick or stone pattern. You can be completely creative and design it to fit your home decor.
Then just go wild and decorate your mantelpiece with all the trimmings. That’s about it.
Best thing, besides a DIY faux fireplace, you still have lots of storage space behind the cabinet doors.
~ by Angi (Follow me on Instagram @deko_obsession)
It’s been a while since I last did a round up of my favourite IKEA hacks on Instagram. And since then, the number of IKEA hacks on IG has grown leaps and bounds.
When I did a search, I found over 280,000 posts on #ikeahacks!
So, before the year ends, let’s dive in and check out some of the best IKEA hacks on Instagram.
A cosy reading nook from 2 MALM dressers (though the caption mentions HEMNES), framed. It even has space behind the cabinets for storage.
A lovely farmhouse style kitchen island using the KALLAX shelving unit as the starting point.
Watch the build process video here:
Want a breakfast counter? This is probably the easiest way to set one up. A FINNVARD trestle and butcher block anchored to the wall. And that’s it!
The FRAKTA trimmed to fit a rolled up yoga mat and protect it from the rain.
Add a little whimsy to your kids’ room. A REGOLIT lamp shade, small basket and stick on dots completes this hot air balloon.
This looks a million bucks but it’s cheaper than you think. You’ll need 2 packs of IKEA LOTS mirrors, 24 angle brackets, masking tape and an adhesive that fixes to both glass and metal. Join the mirrors together, et voilà!
A lovely KURA playhouse. Click the arrows to see how happy she is to call this her big girl bed.
When I see absolutely “far out” hacks like this, it gets me very excited. It also reminds me of this one. I hope the BRONSSOPP guitar sounds good.
What an idea! A toy box with storage and seating. So useful, and I don’t mean just for kids. I can think of a number of ways I can use this handy storage crate ottoman at home.
So simple but make a difference. Just take one more FROSTA seat and leg and attach the short curved section under the seat. Sadly, the FROSTA seems to be discontinued, which is a major bummer. It is definitely Number 1 on my “IKEA, Please Bring Back List“.
These LEGO brick cabinets are adorable. Cilla made them from EKET cubes and round discs. Catch her Stories at @designbycilla for the tutorial.
Probably the simplest hack ever. The SNIDAD basket (handles removed) topped with a round wood table and there you have it! A coffee table for your patio.
For more IKEA hacks on Instagram, follow me @ikeahackersofficial.
IKEA TRYSIL wardrobe saved from landfill and converted into a retro arcade games machine.
We were dismantling our son’s TRYSIL Wardrobe to remove it from his room. It had been good wardrobe but the backing had started to continuously fall away.
It had some slight damage during dismantling and would have become landfill apart from a last minute idea….
A retro arcade machine!
It actually looks pretty retro, and it plays like a real arcade machine.
First, dismantle the wardrobe (if it is already assembled).
Separate the 2 tall side pieces (Important! Leave hanging rod brackets ON! 2 x shelf pieces, 2 x drawer fronts, and any assorted bolts and screws. Dowel rods can be removed – I didn’t use them)
Mark out the side pieces to make 2 cuts.
Side Panel cutting Guide
This allows the cabinet to lean back at a neat angle. Ensure you identify the top and bottom correctly and take care to use the nicely edged side to stand towards the front. Cut with circular saw if possible. I used a jigsaw so cut is quite rough.
Mark out and drill pilot holes through sides to attach shelves between the 2 side panels. Use the long IKEA hex bolts that came with the TRYSIL to secure the shelves.
On mine the middle shelf for controls is fitted at 93cm high and slopes very slightly toward the front.
Once it is standing up use additional screws to fit the drawer fronts at the top.
These are actually a little wider than the shelves but I squeezed mine in without cutting. But if you are better with a saw than I am you may wish to cut these down slightly to fit.
I also fitted the rear one at an angle and only used 1 screw on each side so it can flip up to access the TV.
Check that everything is holding together nicely then use 4 L-brackets to reinforce the structure.
I added an extra 2 brackets to the middle shelf for extra sturdy controls.
Now, if you left on the hanging rod holders and measured correctly I found that the TV sat at the perfect height to support the 30” TV we had, donated by my in-laws.
I then fitted 2 screws in each top corner to allow TV to rest at the perfect viewing angle.
And that’s all I did for the cabinet.
If you want there are many other pieces that could be used to enclose the back of the cabinet and under the TV as well. (Again – I didn’t cut too much as I only had a jig saw and it cut this stuff very rough!).
There are many instructional on Youtube on how to build an arcade games machine with a Raspberry Pi computer and Retro Pie.
But here are the basic steps to fitting the joysticks and buttons to the USB controller, then connecting those to your Raspberry Pi mini computer.
First, search for a button layout online or design your own on a piece of paper.
Use this as a guide to drill holes for joystick and large buttons (28mm drill bit worked for me. Also some smaller buttons were 18mm I think – check your button sizes as they may vary). I did all this with the cabinet assembled.
The buttons should just drop in and screw tight and the joystick requires placement and a couple of short screws underneath.
The joystick kit comes with cables to attach to the USB board. These can also be fixed with a small screw or two.
Then, take care to wire both player 1 and player 2 buttons in the same order as this will make the joystick configuration in the Retro Pie interface much easier.
The cabinet build took me about 3-4 hours, but I was making it up as I went along. Fitting in the joysticks and buttons took me about 2 hours. Programming Raspberry Pi computer was easy to do with lots of online tutorials. That took about 1 hour.
Fitting the cabinet parts together. You may need another person to assist holding pieces in place while assembling the cabinet.
Cutting the large pieces so that the rubber edging remains in-tact for front edges of cabinet, which makes a nicer finish.
Be careful fitting the shelves as they are not particularly thick. They definitely need support with L-brackets.
No, it actually turned out almost exactly as I envisaged. I am still working out how to finish the cabinet with some more trimming beneath TV and control panel.
~ by Andrew Gelao (Katoomba NSW, Australia)
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