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Yesterday β€” June 1st 2020IKEA Hackers

Make this stylish wooden coat stand for under $10

After my last hack, the ÖRTFYLLD accent lamp, I went on to make this wooden coat stand from IKEA clothes hangers.

IKEA items used:
HOPA clothes hangers

HOPA clothes hanger |

Other materials and tools:
  • Wooden square bar 900mm x 2 (Length to fit the desired height of clothes stand)
  • Wooden dowels (these are not necessary if you get a whole wooden bar in the desired length)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper
  • Drill
  • Drill guide for dowel
  • Nipper

DIY modern wooden coat stand

1. First, get the wooden square bar and drill two holes at the cross section to fit the diameter of the wooden dowel.

(Step 1 is to join the two bars into one. I made the stand out of two 900mm wooden bars, because the delivery charge was cheaper. But I would recommend making the clothes stand from a whole 1800mm wooden bar. Doing so would make the project much easier, and the 2 wooden dowels would not be needed.)

2. Apply enough woodwork glue into the hole and cross section. And then put in a wooden dowels. Push the bar together so that the dowels are tight in the holes.

wooden bar

3. Sand the all sides and corners of the bar.

4. Deconstruct the HOPA hanger. Remove the wooden bar and cut away the metal hook.

5. Cut the wooden bars into the desired length. These dowels will form the hooks where the clothes are hung on the stand. Sand down all the cut dowels.

wooden coat stand from IKEA clothes hangers

6. Now, onto the support base for the clothes stand. You’ll be using the main body of the hanger as support. Drill two holes and secure the HOPA hanger to one end of the wooden bar with screws. Countersink the drilled holes for a neater finish.

base support

7. Then along the square bar, drill holes at the spots where you want to hang your items.

wooden coat stand from IKEA clothes hangers

8. Put enough wood glue on the dowels and insert them into the wooden bar.

Let the glue dry and your wooden coat stand is done.

wooden coat stand from IKEA clothes hangers

I explained it much better with a video. See how I made the coat rack on Youtube.

wooden coat stand from IKEA clothes hangers

~ by MO_USE

The post Make this stylish wooden coat stand for under $10 appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Before yesterdayIKEA Hackers

Barcelona studio apartment so cosy after this 2-day hack

A lovely bed nook with the BILLY Bookcase as a room divider.

I hated being able to see my bed from the “kitchen” and vice versa, so needed a cheap way to hide it!

Here was how it looked when I first moved in:

bed - before


sofa - before


Quotes for a partition wall came in too expensive, plus it’s a rental, so I decided to use the BILLY bookcase as a room divider.

Related: See this guy’s striking IKEA makeover during lockdown

IKEA items used: 
Other materials and tools: 

DIY IKEA bookcase room divider

First, I primed and painted the backs of the bookcases as I’d be able to see them from the bed. You could also use adhesive wallpaper, or leave as is.

Then I constructed the bookcases and configured the shelves. I put them in position and used metal braces along the top and middle to join them together and stabilise them.

metal brace

For the curtains, I threaded the curtain wire through the IRJA curtain rod so that it would stay rigid (rather than sag in the middle). The rod also makes it nice and slide-y for the curtains.

BILLY bookcase room divider

I stuck a strong 3M hook on the wall, and screwed a hook into the bookcase on the opposite side.

BILLY bookcase room divider

Partition in progress

I removed the curtain tabs, folded over and sewed into a rod pocket instead.

Then, I hemmed the bottom to the correct length.

Popped the curtain on the rod, hooked each side and voila! A cosy bed nook that doesn’t distract your eye when in the rest of the flat 🙂 

BILLY bookcase room divider

Whilst being in coronavirus lockdown, I have been filling in the empty dowel holes on the bookshelves with a little white filler, smoothed down with a credit card.

BILLY bookcase cover up holes

Covering up the dowel holes

They can be popped out with a nail if you want to rearrange the shelves in future.

How long and how much did it cost?  

Two days to prime and paint (optional), plus a few hours of construction.

Total cost:  146 EUR plus 50 EUR Delivery from IKEA, 30 EUR on sundries. Total: 226 EUR

What do you like most about the hack? 

It’s so simple, relatively cheap, makes the other side feel more like a living room and can be easily moved or reconfigured!

What was the hardest part about this hack? 

Nothing hard, filling the little holes has been blissfully mundane and repetitive.

What to pay special attention to? 

I made sure to put heavier items on the shelves at the bottom for more stability.


~ by Jess

The post Barcelona studio apartment so cosy after this 2-day hack appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

An IKEA DJ Booth completes this supercool hideaway

After completing the bar in my garage, I had planned on adding a DJ Booth using IKEA elements. Finally, it is finally complete.

IKEA items used:
Other item used:

DJ booth IKEA KALLAX hack:

So … I started off with the 6 x KALLAX units, assembling them as per instructions.

kallax 2x2

KALLAX shelf unit |

I measured up 20cm from the bottom of each cube, and 5cm in from the back of each cube, on both sides and marked with pencil.

Then, I carefully drilled 17mm holes all the way through the middle shelf and only through the first layer of the outer sides (left & right).

Next, I measured across the KALLAX unit (77cm) and cut the RÄCKA poles to approx. 75cm each. I then disassembled each KALLAX and fed the RÄCKA poles through the holes so they rested on the outer edges as below.

Vinyl record stopper in KALLAX

I did this top and bottom for all 6 x KALLAX units. The RÄCKA poles act as a stopper for 12” vinyl records, without having to board up the back of the unit. It means all vinyl sit neatly, approx 15mm inside the shelf. 

vinyl records in KALLAX unit
Setting up the flight case

Next it was time to make a worktop for the flight case that has 2 x Technics SL1210 turntables and a mixer.

I had a LINNMON table top cut to size and the nice edge of the cut off glued back on, so it looked like it had never been cut!

LINNMON table - cut

Next up was the legs for the table top — 2 x 4 packs of CAPITA 16cm adjustable stainless steel legs.

I turned the LINNMON table top upside down. And carefully marked and attached the CAPITA legs to the underside of the LINNMON. Positioned them so they would rest nicely on top of the 2 KALLAX units.


This now gave the the correct height to set the flight case on. 

An IKEA DJ Booth

I needed room underneath the LINNMON table top for an AV Receiver, PlayStation & Sky Box as they feed the projector mounted on the ceiling which projects to the big screen at the front of the room. The CAPITA legs are ideal for this as they are adjustable in height.

An IKEA DJ Booth
Small but essential touches

Then it was time for the finishing touches … up next was a BJÄRNUM foldable hook for my headphones which I simply screwed on to the front of the KALLAX.

BJARNUM hooks for headphones

When not required it can be nearly closed up.

BJARNUM hooks closed

Then it was time for some trick lighting … I researched and researched and found the GOVEE Dream Lights kit on Amazon. I chose the 10m pack (2x5m rolls). This was then mounted on the rear of the KALLAX units and underside of the LINNMON table top at the front. 

*Note* – use alcohol wipes to remove all dust and surface dirt so the 3M self adhesive sticks properly

GOVEE lighting
LED lighting strip

I chose the GOVEE Dream Light kit as it has 8 different colours, various colour changing modes and a MUSIC MODE (see video)

Here are more photos of the DJ booth in different colour modes.

An IKEA DJ Booth
An IKEA DJ Booth
An IKEA DJ Booth
An IKEA DJ Booth

Total Spent in IKEA: £222.50

Total Spent on other fittings: £49.99

The IKEA KALLAX DJ Booth, along with my previous bar hack, has provided me with a perfect escape out in my man cave during lockdown!

Stay Home, Stay Safe

~ by Jonny Small, Belfast

See the other hack in this room:

The post An IKEA DJ Booth completes this supercool hideaway appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Q: IKEA BILLY bookshelves with library ladder?

I recently purchased a lovely old Cotterman library ladder with a long track. Track feels heavy.


I’d like to attach the ladder to my extensive tall (extended) IKEA BILLY bookshelves but am concerned the particleboard won’t hold up. Anyone done this or any advice?

~ Melissa


Hi Melissa

I’ve definitely seen IKEA BILLY bookshelves with a library ladder — so classic!

All of them has the ladder fastened to pieces of solid wood fixed to a frame, rather than the BILLY bookshelf. As you suspected, particleboard BILLY is too flimsy to hold up a heavy track.

The BILLY bookshelves themselves should be fastened onto the wall. The backboard is not sturdy enough so you will need a combination of L and corner brackets to secure the units to wall studs (if on a drywall).

IKEA BILLY bookshelves with rolling ladder

In the photo below, Doug stacked short BILLY bookshelves on top of the tall ones with solid wood between the units. The piece of solid wood is where he fastened the rail. See the details here.

IKEA bookshelves with rolling ladder

The Makerista also has lovely built-in IKEA BILLY bookshelves with a library ladder.

IKEA bookshelves with ladder

Credit: The Makerista

In her version, the track goes on the wood frame above the bookcases.

built in frame

Credit: The Makerista

If you rather not hack your BILLY bookcases into built-ins you’ll need to figure out other methods to incorporate the ladder. Perhaps a stand alone wood frame for it?

Or, like Kelly, mount the ladder on to a sliding track on the ceiling. (Which may not work with your Cotterman ladder mechanism.) But still a lovely idea for others who may want a rolling ladder.

IKEA bookshelves with ladder

Credit: The Lily Pad Cottage

Hope it all goes well. Let us know what you end up with finally.

Happy hacking,


Hacking may compromise the structural integrity of the item, so please be aware of the risks involved before modifying or altering any IKEA product. Alterations and modifications will also void any warranties or return policies you may have received from IKEA. is not liable for any product failure, injury or damage resulting from the application of suggestions, ideas and hacks featured on this site.

The post Q: IKEA BILLY bookshelves with library ladder? appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Adjustable helper tower that grows with your child

CAUTION: If you are unsure of how to make this safely, please do not recreate this TROFAST helper tower. Get an original Learning Tower.

When our son was about a year old, I wanted to find a way to get him more involved when I cooked. It was then that I stumbled across the concept of a helper tower.

However, the readymade options in the market are really expensive. And I was not ready to invest such a sum after a long maternity leave.

My ability to work with wood being limited, the option of building it myself from scratch was also out of the question.

So I turned to social networks to find an idea to adapt an existing piece of furniture on a learning tour. 

I came across several sites that showed how to turn an IKEA footstool into a learning tower. However, this idea did not suit me because I was looking for something that could grow with my son. Which meant, I wanted a helper tower with a height-adjustable step.

I then decided to develop my own IKEA hack by adapting another of their furniture. And since I have never seen anyone on the Internet with the same idea, I thought it might be of interest to you to know how I did it.

Helper Tower IKEA Hack

As the idea of ​​having a helper tower with adjustable levels was important to me, I decided to use the IKEA TROFAST toy storage frame as the base of my project.

Trofast frame

TROFAST frame |

It’s very simple. The idea is to NOT install the top shelf in order to create an opening at the top of the frame.

learning helper tower IKEA Trofast hack

Then, using pieces of pine plank that we already had at home, I made a large box platform. It slotted into the rail groove closest to the ground. 

This platform protrudes from the module by approximately six inches. It provides stability to the structure and serves as the first step up.

learning helper tower IKEA Trofast hack

Finally, still with the wood scraps we already had at home, I made a sturdy shelf. We made sure that the thickness of the wood was a tight fit for the grooves to avoid any movement or slippage.

T shelf

Cross section of shelf for learning tower

The shelf has a support beam running under it to prevent any sag. This shelf can be raised or lowered depending on the height of the child using the tower.

The shelf is so tight in the groove that it doesn’t slip and I did not use any brackets to hold it up. Nevertheless, you may want to add some brackets or cleat supports, depending on the wood used. Please use your own judgement in creating a safe and sturdy platform for your child.

(Please take note that the IKEA TROFAST shelves may not be strong enough to support the weight of a child. They also tend to fall off the grooves.)

cleat support

Cleat supports | Credit:

And with that, our learning tower is done.

See the complete tutorial here.

~ by Annick

The post Adjustable helper tower that grows with your child appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

IKEA PAX wardrobe too tall, so we did this

The IKEA PAX wardrobe was too tall for our low ceiling. But we made it work.

So I was moving into a my girlfriend’s house and we were remodeling a room and the garage into a new master suite. At the time I already had 2 large 39” and a smaller 19” PAX setup for my closets which I already moved once. 

The room layout didn’t lend itself to having a big walk in closet or something similar. So we decided to use what I had and add to it for our new closet.

The only real problem was the ceiling height was only 7’6” or 90” which wouldn’t fit my 92+” frames.

Related: The 2 main problems with PAX solved

The IKEA PAX wardrobe was too tall for it. There were two things we did during our reno to make it work:

  • First was building a short wall that the frames started from.
  • Second was putting a couple 2x4s into the wall where they ended so I had something to screw into once we got the last dummy door in place.

I knew I would have to cut the ~93” frame down one way or the other. And I felt being able to pull a frame out was worth the ~2” I would lose being able to assemble on the ground and then install against the wall. And also I was not going to install one section flat against the wall.

If the wardrobe was too tall, why didn’t we get the shorter IKEA PAX?

My other option would have been to start all over and get the shorter 79” frame. With this option I would lose about 8-10” of space in the cabinets. And I would have to invest a lot more money into all the new frames.

So that was out of the question.

Besides, it wasn’t that hard of a hack.

I just had to be careful on the cuts not to screw up the finishes or usability. Moreover, I didn’t want to spend more money than necessary buying new frames or doors. 

Sadly, IKEA had stopped making the white oak color for the frames and organizers from when I got the originals.

So the corner frame and my girlfriend’s KOMPLEMENT organizers are in black. But not a big deal as they are typically not visible. 

Cost a lot less

The overall cost wasn’t a lot, maybe $100. I wanted some 1/4” plywood for better rigidity and some miscellaneous parts like a Forstner bit to cut a perfect hole for my new door hinge location.

The main part didn’t take very long. Took me a few hours to get everything marked and cut. However, the last custom door took several hours alone.  

I was just happy that I got to keep my PAX closets and didn’t have to go spend a bunch of money on new closets and organizers.

Our friends and family love the look of it. 

It is a bold look, a large wall of dark closet doors. It looks good in the space, and the tall LANSA handles break it up and give it a elegant look.

IKEA items used:

Main Parts PAX Frames:

  • White oak stained: 1 of 19x22x92 and 2 of 39x22x92, and old style corner frame in black
  • Doors (NEXUS) – no longer available
  • Handles (LANSA) – no longer available
  • Lighting was all Ansluta LED sized for the cabinets, turns on automatically with photocell they contain
  • Also used various KOMPLEMENT organizers, drawers and pull out shelves, standard shelves, valet trays, pull out pants hanger, etc.
Other items used:
  • 1/4 plywood for new frame back
  • Few pieces of lumber
  • Forstner bit
  • Misc hardware
  • Some dark stain
  • Leftover room paint

IKEA PAX wardrobe too tall for low ceilings

1. Checked instructions for PAX install. Saw that the height to assemble on the floor and then install was about 95” and the frame is about 93”.

So since I only have 90” of ceiling height to work with I would need the frame to be about 5” shorter. I decided to go with 5.5” just to be sure.

2. Carefully taped and marked the 2 sides of the frames. (3 on the old corner style.) And then, I cut with a circular saw after clamping a sacrificial piece of wood to the rear side. The tape and extra wood is to avoid chipping of the finish. 

IKEA PAX wardrobe too tall so we cut it down

Basically there are three pieces of solid wood/particle board in the side section of the frame where the screw holes are, about 3” wide each. Between those sections is honeycomb type material. It all cuts very easily. 

short wall to start with

The short wall where the wardrobes start

3. Re-assembled the frames as per directions. Then, added 1/4 plywood as a backing instead of original cardboard type just to give it a little more rigidity.

IKEA PAX wardrobe too tall

4. Since the longer section of frames was installed about 3” from the wall, I had to use long heavy duty screws (tapcons) to reach the wall and through into the block.

IKEA PAX wardrobe too tall

5. Since the old style corner section sits slightly off the wall on the short side of the frames I left off one of the two back panels to leave access and use the space for extra storage.  

6. Installed frames and got bolted into walls and made sure to use the sleeve anchor/screws the frames come with to attach all the frames together. 

7. Made sure it was all level and plumb. 

IKEA PAX wardrobe too tall

8. Doors fit nicely from floor to ceiling.

But bottom door hinge did not fit correctly with my organizer setup. I had to order a Forstner bit and measure very carefully ($90 doors) to get a hole in the correct spot so the hinge lined up with the frame’s mounting holes.

new hinge mount

9. I also had to chop about 1/4’ off the bottom of the doors since they scraped the carpet, keeping them from shutting correctly. 

Used the soft close hinges on all doors so they shut slowly. 

Making the frameless door

The last door to the left is very custom as it is only there to cover my electrical panel and some other wiring. 

1. I had to make a template by measuring every 6” along frame as it wasn’t perfectly even between the wall and the frame.

dummy door

2. I then cut a piece of 1/4 plywood to the measurements. After cutting a little more here and there to get the plywood to fit exactly, I taped up the real door, transferred the line over to it, and then cut it down. 

I ended up with approx 3 1/2” taken off, and was happy to find it was still the wood/particle board that far in.

dummy door

3. I used a dark stain on the cut edge to match the door color so it wasn’t noticeable. 

4. After that I installed the piece of door I cut off as a stop and used a pine 1×4” to mount the hinges to.

(I had preinstalled a couple of 2x4s in the wall when we were refinishing the room to have a solid surface to mount hinges/wood when I got to this step).

5. Painted the pine to match the wall so it’s as seamless as possible.


~ by Steve

The post IKEA PAX wardrobe too tall, so we did this appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

IKEA wants you to build these tiny homes for bees

Bee awesome and make this tiny home.

Two days ago was World Bee Day — May 20 — and it’s easy to overlook these tiny creatures so essential to life on this planet.

Bees and the service they provide are a vital part of our ecosystem and have been shaping our natural environment for millions of years. But now, because of human impact, their place in this world is threatened.

IKEA and Space 10 joined forces with technology-driven design company Bakken & Bæck and industrial designer Tanita Klein to inspire people to solve this global challenge in a playful and accessible way.

And the result is the Bee Home — a free and open-source design that enables anyone, anywhere to design, customise and fabricate a home to support these tiny pollinators locally.

Bee Home - IKEA + Space 10

Photo: Space10 + Irina Boersma

The Bee Home looks like apartment blocks. The many holes are for bees to live, store food and provide shelter for the eggs they lay, recreating as natural an environment as possible.

One for Solitary Bees

The Bee Home is designed to house solitary bees, which unlike honeybees, do not live in hives or produce honey.

“Solitary bees are great pollinators: a single solitary bee could provide as much pollination as 120 honeybees. With nearly 90 percent of the world’s flowering plants depending on pollination — including a third of the world’s food supply — solitary bees are vital for life on planet Earth,” it says on the Bee Home project page.

“Every female solitary bee is a queen. And since every queen gets 20 to 30 offspring, a single Bee Home could give life to hundreds of solitary bees ready to ensure the survival of flowers, trees, animals and us humans.”

“Solitary bees are friendly — they don’t produce honey and therefore have nothing to protect. They only sting if trod on and are safe to keep around kids and pets.”

Make a Bee Home in 3 steps

#1 Design

Design your very own Bee Home in a few minutes. Just select size, visual style and desired placement, like a rooftop, balcony or garden — or play around with the shuffle button. Your design will instantly update.

(I played around with the design and in a few minutes, customised this 2-feet, 5-storey standing Bee Home, pictured here.)

design process
#2 Fabricate

Download the design files for free. Then, either DIY or locate a makerspace with a CNC milling machine to get it fabricated.

#3 Place

Once assembled, place your Bee Home facing the morning sun and within 300m of local flowers. Solitary bees usually won’t travel further than that.

Bee Home - IKEA + Space 10

Photo: Space10 + Brendan-Austin

No maintenance is required besides a quick cleaning every third year. In fact, once you put it up, you should just leave it be.

Visit Space10 for more details and start giving the bees back their homes.

The post IKEA wants you to build these tiny homes for bees appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Transforming the KALLAX to a movable magazine stand

We have a guest/library room with two BIRKELAND pieces and needed a matching magazine stand for our file holders.

BIRKELAND chest of drawers (discontinued) |

The plan was to hack the more streamlined KALLAX to match the design of the BIRKELAND.

The result is a matching movable magazine stand that also works as a “work area” or standing desk to read or to work on other projects.

kallax 2x2

KALLAX 2×2 shelving unit |

The hack has the following IKEA items:

Specially ordered items from Bauhaus/ Home Depot:

  • 4 corner moldings 
  • Plywood board approx 70  x 70 cm for bottom of the KALLAX unit
  • White board with white edges approximately 90 x 90 cm (check the size of trim, to make it fit) as the top plate
  • Paint stir-sticks from the paint department

DIY movable magazine stand

Fixing the top plate

First, I drilled a few screw holes in the KALLAX to attach the top plate.

predrilled holes

I drilled 4 holes (blue dots in drawing below) as close to the vertical wall as I could. (refer to 1)


The drawing above shows drill holes for one KALLAX unit

The two center holes (pink dots) have more or less no supporting material on the inside. So, I made the hole large enough for a screw head to come through on the inner side. (refer to 2)

Once I completed the drilling, I was ready to attach the top plate (white board).

I found it easiest to lay the top plate (white board) on the floor. Then, position the two KALLAX units (back to back) on the top plate.  

After that, I measured carefully so that the KALLAX units would end up at equal distances from the edge on all sides. (as evenly as possible).

  • screws
  • screws

There is a slight height difference between the vertical walls and the top and bottom panels. So I cut paint stir-sticks into approximately 5 cm long pieces, drilled a hole through the centre and placed them between the gap to compensate for the height difference.

After checking that all positions and levels were right, I screwed the KALLAX units to the top plate. I left as small a gap between the two back-to-back KALLAX units as possible.

Installing the bottom plate
bottom plate

Then I put the bottom plate (plywood) on top of the two KALLAX units and centered it the best I could.

I wanted the wheels to be as invisible as possible, so I positioned them as far inwards as I could. 

I pre-marked with an awl where the wheels would sit.

caster wheels

Then I pre-drilled with a small drill and screwed long screws through the wheel mount, plywood and into the KALLAX unit. 

By doing this, I got no visible screws on the inside shelf, and the same screws were used to hold the wheels in place as well as hold the assembly together.

The magazine stand is heavy with all of its content so I put 8 wheels to support the weight.

movable matching magazine stand IKEA KALLAX hack

The last thing was to glue and nail the moldings in place. This finishing touch gave the KALLAX the BIRKELAND style.

movable matching magazine stand IKEA KALLAX hack

And with the help of a friend, we turned it over as a finished product.

movable matching magazine stand IKEA KALLAX hack

It’s a pretty good match to our BIRKELAND pieces.

movable matching magazine stand IKEA KALLAX hack

~ by Tommy Leo

The post Transforming the KALLAX to a movable magazine stand appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Q: Can I paint the IKEA PS cabinets?

How to paint IKEA PS cabinets to look like the FJÄLLBO.

We will move this summer and I plan on making the new place look a little more put together and “grown up” than our current flat.

Since I am still on maternity leave there is not much money left but we have perfectly usable furniture that just don’t match well. 

IKEA PS cabinet in red and white

For the dining area I’d like to paint two IKEA PS cabinets, one is white and one is red, in a matte black (or very dark anthracite) and fit them with wooden boards on top to match the look of the FJÄLLBO shelves / sideboard


Has anyone done that or a similar project before and can give me some hints on what to do, what to use, and if this is even possible? 




Hi Anna

Congrats on the move and the coming bundle of joy.

Absolutely! You can paint the IKEA PS Cabinets. Even IKEA has done it.

IKEA PS cabinets painted

Credit: Livet Hemma

All you need is spray paint. A paint and primer formulation like Rust-Oleum 2x Spray Paint is a good choice for projects like this.

You may also want to get a spray paint grip along with your spray cans. The grip provides better control and helps reduce finger fatigue as you spray large surfaces.

Quick spray painting tips

Start by removing the hardware (lock) and wiping down the cabinet with a mild detergent. A clean surface will help the spray paint adhere better. Let the cabinets dry.

Then, grab your can of spray paint and hold it about 6-8 inches away from the surface you want to paint.

And spray in light strokes across the surface. Remember to start the spray before the surface and end it after to avoid blotches of paint.

Let the surfaces dry completely before the second coat. Read the instructions on the can for drying times. Then, spray the surfaces again. Be patient and always go light. You may need three coats or more for thorough coverage.

Yasmin has a tutorial for exactly what you want to achieve, except for the color.

how to paint IKEA PS cabinets

Credit: Sugar and Dinosaurs

IKEA PS Cabinet hacks

If you like to get more fancy, you can try some variations. Like Tricia’s PS Cabinet with an aged steel finish. This was inspired by the Restoration Hardware Vintage Industrial Steel Cabinet.

gun metal finish

Or give them wooden doors instead of a wood top? See the hack here.

IKEA PS cabinets wood doors

And lastly, how about stacking them up?

double IKEA PS cabinets

With a few coats of paint, the IKEA PS Cabinets should look great next to the FJÄLLBO units. Let us know how it goes.

Happy painting,


Hacking may compromise the structural integrity of the item, so please be aware of the risks involved before modifying or altering any IKEA product. Alterations and modifications will also void any warranties or return policies you may have received from IKEA. is not liable for any product failure, injury or damage resulting from the application of suggestions, ideas and hacks featured on this site.

The post Q: Can I paint the IKEA PS cabinets? appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

A metal shelf that’s perfect as a guitar pedalboard

Metal shelf with ready made holes for a pedalboard.

So. I needed a pedalboard for my bass guitar pedals. Going through my garage I found an ALGOT metal shelf I wasn’t using. I think it fits its purpose perfectly!

IKEA items used:

DIY metal pedalboard

As the shelf is made of metal, there’s the option to temporarily place the pedals with self adhesive magnet strips. This is good if you want to move the pedals around or use different pedals from time to time.

As I only own two pedals and wanted them to be more permanently attached I instead used ordinary pedal Velcro strips. The shelf has a lot of holes in it which means you can also attach the pedals with plastic strips.

metal pedalboard ikea algot
metal pedalboard ikea algot

The cables can be organised and held in place with plastic strips through the holes.

To make absolutely sure the board doesn’t damage the floor, I used four FIXA stick-on floor protectors — one in each corner under the board.

fixa floor protector

Optional: If wanted, two ALGOT brackets can be attached to give the whole metal pedalboard an angle. In this case it’s extremely important to attach, for example, two FIXA floor protectors to the brackets. They are extremely sharp and is guaranteed to damage your floor.

~ by David Wallin

You may also like these ideas for metal pedalboards

#1 $15 DIY Pedalboard
DIY Pedalboard

As a guitarist and dad, Garrett was searching for an affordable way to keep his effect pedals all secured and easy to move as his toddler likes to rearrange them while he plays, disconnecting cables and cords.

Professionally built pedalboards (like these) can cost an arm and a leg. This was a flash of inspiration while looking for something else, as often happens at IKEA. See full tutorial of DIY pedalboard.

#2 10 min pedalboard

Why spend time and money searching for one when you can make your own fantastic pedalboard from IKEA in less than ten minutes? See the hack.

The post A metal shelf that’s perfect as a guitar pedalboard appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

See these ideas before you customize the IVAR cabinet

We bought some IVAR cabinets to make a customized wall unit for our living room.

Again, maybe not a very high-tech or impressive hack, but there might be some useful tips in here for someone looking for a similar solution.

We played around a bit with the configuration, trying different options (see GIF), ending up with our final customized IVAR.

custom ivar
Ivar combinations
IKEA items used:
Other materials used:
  • Spirit level
  • Drill
  • ⌀35mm forstner drill bit
  • aw
  • Painting supplies

Customized wall mounted IVAR cabinet

First off, this cabinet is cheap. It is cheaper than buying only the wood from the hardware store if you are considering making something similar yourself.

This is great and saves you a lot of time, but also manage your expectations on the quality of the wood. There are a lot of corrections in the wood, some more noticeable than others (see pictures).


They are not on the front faces of the doors, but on the cabinet side walls all around, on the shelves and on the inside of the doors. If you are planning on painting later, this might not be a problem, but just something to keep in mind.

The good side out

I inspected all of the wood before assembling and made sure the best looking pieces are on the outside of my configuration and on the most visible parts.

And the worst looking ones are assembled against each other and thus not visible. (Since the cabinets are sold in cardboard boxes, you cannot check the wood before buying it, as I did when buying IVAR shelves.)

Wall mounting bar in the IVAR

We screwed the cabinets right into the wall (using suitable wall anchors of course). I read some comments on the cabinets that there is no system supplied/available to hang them (like for other (IKEA) cabinets there apparently is?)

But the cabinet has a structure which makes it suitable to hang it right onto the wall, like the instruction manual also shows. There is a reinforcing wooden bar at the top off the back with screw holes already in place. This bar will carry the cabinet.

ivar assembly wall
Adjusting the IVAR gap

Second critical note I read online in several hacks and comments/reviews on IKEA’s website, is that there is a big gap between the 2 doors. I admit that when I first assembled the doors, I was also a bit disappointed by the size of the gap, but; it CAN be fixed by tuning the hinges!

Of course, you can also solve it by adding a strip of wood at the back of 1 of the doors, but I preferred to not have a fixed order in which to open and close the doors.

I tuned the hinges, again according to the manual, and in my opinion the gap is acceptable now. Since the initial gap is about 0.5cm big, I was afraid that tuning the hinges, bringing the doors closer together, might give a noticeable gap/step on the hinge-side of the doors (between the door and the outside of the cabinet), but in my opinion, it is acceptable.

So, to close the gap:
  • loosen the screw that connects the hinge on the door to the mounting plate in the cabinet. Make sure it is loose enough (or completely disassemble it from the mounting plate) so there is enough room for the second screw to be screwed in.
  • when this first screw is loose, you can screw in the second screw. This screw will give the door an offset to the mounting plate in the cabinet (I quickly damaged the cross in these screws making it hard to screw them, I ended up using pliers to grab it on the outside and turn it in)
  • now, re-attach the first screw to secure the hinge back on the mounting plate

If you do this for all 4 hinges, you get, in my opinion, an acceptable gap.

adjusting the gap

So far everything is according to the manual, no hacking involved 😉

New hinges for wide opening

We also wanted to put the TV in one of the cabinets. Only issue is, the hinges of the cabinet only allow for a +/- 90° opening angle. This will limit the visibility of the screen, so I decided to replace the hinges.

The IKEA hinges, even though they are branded ‘IKEA’, are actually BLUM hinges, so I bought BLUM 170° hinges. Hinges from another brand will probably also work fine, but I have good experience with fitting these hinges onto this cabinet.

When buying hinges, make sure to buy:
  • full overlay hinges; so the door will cover the sidewall of the cabinet
opening hinge
  • the opening angle you want (I choose 170°)
opening angle
  • screw-on hinges; there are other systems available (depending on the brand called things like inserta/fix/impresso), but they require more precise drilling. With screw-on, you can just screw into the wooden door. IKEA actually also sells 153° hinges (UTRUSTA), but they have the inserta system, so I did not use those.
  • mounting plate, I picked clip top ‘wing’ mounting plate 0mm plate height with system screws. These mounting plates and screws fit right into the existing holes for the original 90° hinges. 
mounting plate

Like I said, the mounting plates fit right into to cabinet where you would otherwise use the hinge provided with the cabinet. The hinges on the door require a bit more work. The original hole in the door is ⌀25mm, the new hinge requires a ⌀35mm hole.

Because I had to make a new bigger hole, not centered to the original hole, I made a very simple jig which worked perfectly. In a scrap piece of wood, I drilled a ⌀35mm hole all the way through the wood. I then attached another small scrap piece of wood to this first piece.

Drilling new holes for hinges

According to specifications of the hinge manual, there should be 7mm between the edge of the door and the start of the hole (‘TB’ dimension between 3-8, with mounting plate height being 0 and door thickness of 18mm, this results in 7mm).


Unscrew the 2 bars on the inside of the doors (they were interfering with the jig and also with the new hinge). Place the jig on the door with the strip against the (hinged) edge. Center the ⌀35mm hole in the jig and the ⌀25mm hole in the door. Firmly fix the jig to the door with some clamps and start drilling the new hole. The jig will keep the drill bit in the right location. 

Be careful not to drill too deep by regularly checking if the new hole is at the same depth as the original hole.

  • Ivar holes for new hinge
  • Ivar holes for new hinge
  • Ivar holes for new hinge
  • Ivar holes for new hinge
  • Ivar holes for new hinge

When you reach the right depth, fit in the new hinge and make some small pilot holes for the screws.

Now, attach the hinges to the door and re-attach the wooden bars back on the door (I had to move them a bit to prevent interference with the hinge). Next you can clip the hinges on the doors onto the mounting plates in the cabinet. If needed, tune the hinges to fit the door in place. Now your doors can fully open 🙂

Customized IVAR for TV
Customized IVAR for TV
Customized shelves for IVAR

When we had this unit finished, we realized that the whole thing was a bit too clean and closed, and we wanted to add some open shelves. Again we experimented a bit with different setups and ways to create open shelves (see GIF). I will shortly explain some of the ideas we had since it might be of help or inspiration to someone.

Customized IVAR for TV
Option 1: 2 cabinets 1 set of doors

When you have 2 (or more) IVAR cabinets on top of each other, you can use any of the dowel hole positions to attach the hinge mounting plates. This way you can place 1 set of doors partly covering 2 cabinets, creating some open shelves around it. No drilling or other modifications needed!

Customized IVAR
Customized IVAR
Option 2: Cutting the doors

Another option we considered, is cutting the doors so the doors will no longer cover the complete cabinet behind it. When cutting the doors, you will cut off the hinge-position, so you will need to make new (⌀25mm) holes in the doors to re-attach the hinges.

If you would align this new hinge position with a new position for the mounting plate in any of the dowel hole positions (see above), this option will require a minimum of modifications and effort.

Option 3: Adding a open area

3. In the end, we decided to move one of the cabinets a bit higher onto the wall, creating an open space between two of the cabinets. The sides of this opening, I covered with some wood.

I used a IVAR shelf to cut some pieces since this is the same wood, same thickness, same depth, so it was really easy to just cut 2 strips to close the sides.

I attached this strip to the cabinet wall below is and on top of it with some pocket hole screws to have the most invisible way of attaching them together. Basically, the strip is not a structural part of the whole wall unit, both cabinets are hanging on the wall by themselves, so you could just put the strip in there with some nails/glue/tape/whatever. 

Customized IVAR

Once we were happy with the configuration, we decided on painting the cabinets, using a slightly different color for the inside and outside. See the end result below.

Painting the IVAR

Midway in the painting process:

Customized IVAR

Painting finished:

All done. Our customized IVAR cabinet.

Customized IVAR
Customized IVAR

Pocket holes attaching the strip on the open shelf part:

Customized IVAR

Original hinge:

Customized IVAR

170° hinge:

Customized IVAR

Also, I customized some KNAGGLIG crates to better fit the IVAR cabinets.

Customized IVAR

For a complete how to on modifying the KNAGGLIG crates, please see the following post on IKEAhackers:

~ by Pauline (Utrecht, The Netherlands)

The post See these ideas before you customize the IVAR cabinet appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

How to extend the new IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

I got the idea to upgrade my old manual blinds in the apartment to the new IKEA motorized ones so I could control them using “Home Assistant”.

There were some practical problems to solve because three of the windows had a width of more than 140 cm which is the longest version of KADRILJ and I thought it would be expensive to change all (16 windows) since the cheapest one of KADRILJ (60 cm) costs about €100 in Sweden.

The idea

Why not extend a 60 cm KADRILJ to cover one long or two windows?

Independent of the KADRILJ length it has the same motor module/battery module and it is very strong.

I have tested an 80 cm KADRILJ extended with two more blinds, 170 + 90 mm width and it works. E.g. balcony door and two wide windows but is was another type of installation than the one described in this guide. I later split it so I used two KADRILJ because I wanted to control the door separately.

It finally took 2 – 3 hours to extend a KADRILJ and get the whole tube into place at the windows. It required several prototypes/retries before it worked as intended.

Finding the correct screws to fasten everything due to different wall materials at the windows was a problem. KADRILJ, especially the ones I extended, weight a lot.

Things needed:
IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

KADRILJ motorized blinds |

  • IKEA KADRILJ – 60 cm is the cheapest one. The “black out” version FYRTUR has a different diameter on the metal tube and this guide is made for KADRILJ.
  • One or two standard blinds with the desired width for the window(s). I already had white “black out” from Kirsch in the apartment so I wanted to reuse the blinds and their metal tubes.
  • Plastic tube 1 or 2 m length, 40 mm outside diameter (preferably exactly the same diameter as the KADRILJ metal tube which is 43 mm but I only found 40 mm in the shops here). Metal/aluminium tubes can probably also be used here but I like plastic since it is easy to handle and the weight is low.
  • Wooden, or metal broom stick, 1.4 – 2 m, with a smaller diameter than the inside of the KADRILJ metal tube. I used a 23 mm version.
  • Electrical tape, black or any colour
  • Double sided tape to fix blind to the tube – I used electrical tape which had its drawbacks
  • A caliper is recommended to make things easier when measuring diameters
  • Saws for metal/plastic/wood and scissors

How to extend KADRILJ motorized blinds

Remove the right end piece from the KADRILJ, not the motor part. There is a small screw on the top of the blind which holds it in place. Remove the metal tube/blind from KADRILJ.

Remove the blind from the metal tube. Just unroll it and pull it from the glue on the tube.

end piece

Kadrilj removed end piece with plastic ring

Related: IKEA Home smart TRÅDFRI remote control gets hacked

Now it is time to calculate the complete width of the blind(s) you want. The KADRILJ motor unit builds about 2 cm from the motor to the left side.

extend IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds
Adding a rod

To get a good mechanical connection between the KADRILJ tube and the plastic tube/original blind metal tube it is important the broom stick fills the gap between the motor and original blind tube.

If two plastic tubes are used, ensure the gap between them is on the middle of the broom stick or original blind tube so it doesn’t become a weak spot where it could break or bend.

broom stick

Broom stick – KADRILJ end

Add electrical tape so the end of the broom stick has the same diameter as the inside the KADRILJ metal tube. Reuse the small plastic ring from the KADRILJ removed end piece and add electrical tape to a diameter to hold the ring in place where the KADRILJ metal tube meets the plastic tube. If everything is correct, the broom stick shall fit inside the KADRILJ metal tube locked in place by the ring and electrical tape. If it still feels a little flexible, add some more tape in the end. 

broom stick

Broom stick in KADRILJ tube

Now it is time to add some material to the broom stick so it gets the same diameter as the inner diameter of the plastic tube. One way is to reuse the blind from the KADRILJ because it is easy to cut with a scissor.

Measure the diameter

A caliper can be used to compare the inner diameter of the plastic tube (in my case about 35.7 mm) and the material on the broom stick. Electrical tape can be used to fix the material to the broom stick at start and fix it once it reaches the correct diameter.

diameter of tube

Inside of plastic tube

The important parts here is the end of the stick and where the stick meets the KADRILJ tube so the plastic tube does not flex when placed on the broom stick and its material. Now the plastic tube can be placed on the broom stick and locked in place against the KADRILJ metal tube using some electrical tape (this tape it is good for a lot of things here).

The original blind tube must now be cut so it can be placed between the end of the broom stick and it extends about 10 mm from the plastic tube. If there are any free space between the stick and tube, it is possible from the original blind tube to move into the plastic tube so the end piece will fall out from the holder of the blinds – not good, I’ve tested it.

added material

Adding material to stick

added material

Plastic tube with added material

Material must also be added to the original blind tube so it reaches the same diameter as the inside of the plastic tube. Same method can be used as for the broom stick. I have also tested O-Rings (locked in place and increased in diameter with electrical tape) or used some old unused blinds. Important places are the end of the tube where it meets the broom stick and at the end of the plastic tube.

Related: IKEA SCHOTTIS hacks and quick fixes that make it better

Padding the tube

When the original blind tube is pushed into the plastic tube it should not flex at all. The end between the plastic tube and original blind tube can be locked with some more electrical tape or a small screw. A screw is better since it prevents the metal tube from moving inside the plastic tube.

If everything is correct now, you should have a very long tube for the blinds. A problem here is the diameter of the KADRILJ metal tube (44.3 mm) is a little bigger than the plastic tube. More material must be added to the plastic tube (40 mm) until it reaches the same diameter as the KADRILJ.

Here it is not possible to leave any gaps except between two blinds because otherwise the blind will buckle when moving.  Here I also used some more old blinds fixed with guess what.. electrical tape. Once the correct diameter (easy to check with a caliper) has been reached, fix the material with some more tape. Fix the tubes against the KADRILJ tube with tape. If the friction between KADRILJ tube/broom stick/plastic tube is to low, the plastic tube will not rotate with the KADRILJ at all.

extend IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

Plastic tube on original blind tube

extend IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

Plastic tube on broom

Mount the extended IKEA motorized blinds

Last step is to mount the blind(s) you want on the long roll. If adding more than one they must have the same total length in order to reach the same position once the blind is in bottom position.

There must also be some space between them to be able to hold the tube from roof/wall. The easiest way is probably to use dual sided tape to fasten the blind(s) to the roll or perhaps thin small screws.

I used electrical tape but had to be careful since it peeled off easy because of the surface of the blinds. Ensure the rotational direction of the KADRILJ and tube. The KADRILJ tube must be on the left side and the tube will roll up clockwise.

Roll up the blind manually and hopefully the blinds will end at the same length and straight. I had to retry a couple of times here.  Another warning – the original blinds can be used to their full length but when mounted on the plastic tube they can fall down if rolled out to long, which I already tested at least once.

3D printed endpiece

Now it is time to mount the holders for the KADRILJ and an endpiece from the old original blind. This long tube weights a lot more than just a KADRILJ so everything must be carefully mounted.

The endpiece does not work as before because the centre of the KADRILJ tube are a lot further from the wall/ceiling. One way is to 3D-print a new end piece or use wood or other material to get the original endpiece to correct position.

If two blinds are used, a strap in a hook must be used to hold the tube between the blinds to release some weight from KADRILJ and the endpiece. At least it worked for me.

3D printed endpiece for IKEA KADRILJ

3d-printed endpiece compared to original

Get the right wall fixings – it’s heavy!

Mounting the whole tube is a work for two or more people because the KADRILJ must be connected to the complete tube during the whole routine.

One holds the KADRILJ in position and another ensures the endpiece connects to the tube correctly. When this is done, KADRILJ can be locked into position.

Ensure it cannot move sideways so the endpiece and tube gets disconnected, otherwise the whole tube/KADRILJ can fall down! Add a strap between if there are more than one blind and check the tube is horizontal.

extend IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

Fix with strap

When the battery is inserted into the KADRILJ, it will move up to top position. Because the original endpiece has been removed from KADRILJ of the extension process, this can be a little tricky.

extend IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

Bedroom window with 120 + 120 cm extended IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

extend IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

kitchen with 150cm extended IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

I got movement of the frame on one extended KADRILJ in the kitchen because of the tension every time it moved to top position and had to add a script in “Home Assistant“ so the KADRILJ closed a few percent afterwards.

extend IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

Living room with 170 + 90 cm extended IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds

For the two widest windows in the living room, this was not a problem.

Our extended IKEA motorized blinds works

Now, finally, all windows are controlled using 9 KADRILJ blinds. If I didn’t want to control one window and the balcony door separately, 7 KADRILJ had been enough.

The total material needed was probably €150 – €200 not including the cost of the IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds.

~ by Per

The post How to extend the new IKEA KADRILJ motorized blinds appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

IKEA shows us 6 creative ways to build a blanket fort

Ahhh … the good old days of blanket fort building and makeshift tents. Seems like as #stayhome days continue on, we’re cranking up on creative ways to play.

IKEA Russia just released “instructions” for furniture forts. And they look delightful.

IKEA blanket fort

The campaign features 6 ways parents can create indoor tents and castles using everyday objects they already have at home.

While the campaign features specific IKEA items, you don’t have to get the actual item displayed in the ad to make an IKEA blanket fort. Use similar products to achieve more or less the same results.

IKEA blanket fort

Related: Dad does it! Hacks the most amazing princess castle bed

A castle is made from a blanket propped up by four dining chairs with a coat rack to form a tower. Hold the blanket in place with clothes pegs. Then, to complete the fairy tale castle, add battery operated string lights.

IKEA blanket fort

With a bit of ingenuity, parent and child can turn everyday objects into exciting settings for new adventures.

camping tent

Related: Bored kids? IKEA has a free boredom solution for them

The instructions are easy enough — any parent or kid can do it, perhaps even do better. IKEA Russia is asking for people to share their versions of their DIY forts on social media with the hashtag #StayHome.


Ready to build an IKEA blanket fort? Show us your version.

CAUTION: Do make sure the structure is safe and do not leave children unattended.

Image credit: Ikea Russia
Source: Adweek

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Q: 4 instead of 2 tiered corner cabinet carousel?

Is it possible to ask a question about the UTRUSTA corner base cabinet carousel?

UTRUSTA carousel |

I was wondering if anyone has bought two of these, but combined into one unit, so with 4 swivel shelves instead of 2?

Or any other good corner hacks?

Thank you!



Hi Karah

That’s an interesting idea … but I’ve not seen it done.

Looking at the assembly manual, it looks possible to insert another swivel shelf into the rod. Personally, I think 4 shelves will be too tight for the height of the cabinet.

Anyone tried this? Do show us how it’s done.

Maximising the corner cabinet without a carousel

While the corner carousel does help you see and reach everything in the corner, IMHO, it does waste a fair amount of space.

Shawna did away with the spinning thing entirely. Instead she used drawer slides and extra shelves to create a shelf and a pull out sections in the cabinet.

It works and is very economical too, compared to the price of the carousel. See her hack here.

kitchen corner cabinet without carousel

Related: 5 kitchen hacks to organize and declutter

For the deep corner, a lazy susan like SNUDDA may be helpful. See it here.

Hope it works.

Happy hacking,


Hacking may compromise the structural integrity of the item, so please be aware of the risks involved before modifying or altering any IKEA product. Alterations and modifications will also void any warranties or return policies you may have received from IKEA. is not liable for any product failure, injury or damage resulting from the application of suggestions, ideas and hacks featured on this site.

The post Q: 4 instead of 2 tiered corner cabinet carousel? appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Custom integrated closet to hide unsightly electricals

Custom closet integrated with PAX doors does the trick, beautifully.

In order to hide the ventilation box and solar roof inverter in our son’s room in the attic, I built a framework and put IKEA PAX FORSAND doors in front of it.

IKEA items used:

Before: there was just a plain wall.

I forgot to make many pictures. But the frame is pretty straightforward: horizontal beams along the floor and ceiling. Vertical ones at the same distances that I measured from the original PAX closet in our bedroom.

Then I covered the frame with 20cm wide MDF to cover the gaps.

Nice detail: the toe kick is at the same distance as the the original PAX toe kick. 

Related: PAX His and Hers closet

Because of the roof incline, I had to cut of the corners of two doors, which was a bit scary. (Would the construction of the door remain stable?)

So I glued a strip over the newly cut edge. The left most door is made out of a panel from a DIY shop, because cutting off the entire left side would remove the inner left beam and render that door unstable.

Because the walls are not perfectly perpendicular, the resulting surface is somewhat crooked, so adjusting the doors was (still is) a challenge. 

On the inside, I added acoustic padding so that the ventilation noise is significantly reduced (appr. 30dB).

In hindsight, I would have used a toe kick, so I did not have to move the lower hinges upward. It would also leave some more headroom for the upper hinges under the roof incline.

It took me about 4 full days as a relatively inexperienced DIY amateur to finish this custom integrated closet.

And it cost well … 5 IKEA doors and under 100 euro in other materials. In the end, I think it looks pretty minimalistic.

~ by Erik Dobbelsteijn

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Makeshift DIY daybed for lockdown napping

Spending more time inside, we needed a narrow, temporary DIY daybed to stretch out and nap on. However, we only had a little niche with a water view.

Materials used:
HYLLIS storage unit

HYLLIS storage units |

  • One tall and one short IKEA HYLLIS outdoor steel shelves
  • 2 plastic covers, one for each size
  • 12 floor protective felt covers for  screws on bottom
  • Padding/ foam/ old quilts for cushioning the sleep surface
  • “Earthquake goop” or removable sticky adherence
  • Perhaps a SELF INFLATING camping pad, narrow and 1 inch deep to add extra cushion to the sleep surface
  • Staple gun with big staples to puncture the plywood
  • Sufficient  fabric to “finish” the cushioned board by stapling it over the padding attached to the board
  • 3/4 inch plywood

HYLLIS DIY daybed instructions:

We had bought the steel garden shelves and matching plastic covers to make mini green houses but decided napping was more important. We built the shelves as directed. But we did NOT put on the plastic covers until later.

One tall one and one short one, with their tops attached to each other at the center gives double support at hip level when reclined. It is also the initial sitting area before lying down.

butting shelves together

It is long enough for extra pillows and tall people.  Attach the two tops with sticky “earthquake goop”. Place them end to end, on their backs, butting the two top shelves against each other, top to top.

You could screw or clamp them together. But the goop is easily removed later if you want to move it or change it back to two standing shelves.

Our unit is wedged between a fireplace and wall so they can’t separate easily as configured in our niche.

MAKE SURE YOU ADD FLOOR PROTECTOR SLIDES OR PADS ON THE BOTTOM SCREWS. When exposed, the sheet metal screws are sharp.

Making the padded top

Add a precut piece of plywood. (Ours measured exactly the length of the combined short and tall units.)

The self inflating camping pad (72” x 24”) also fits perfectly. So we could pad it and still have it fit in the existing niche.

DIY IKEA daybed

Do take into consideration how much “wrap” you plan to use as it will extend outside your board.

We did not plan to use this platform bed outdoors so we did not consider what should be used as padding when exposed to the elements.

Instead we used what was available.

We laid the board on top of a mix of thicker fabric we already had. That included moving blankets, clean under-carpet foam and a doubled up old quilt. We pulled it all taut with the quilt on the bottom the layers, then the board on top.

Staple it down about 1” from the edge all around.

When you flip it over the quilt is taut on top with the board sitting directly on the shelving frames. That part required two people: one to pull taut and one to staple.

Keep your staples close to the edge. Later, you will add a pretty piece of fabric stapled down over the top of the batting to make it taut and looking like professional upholstery work.

underbed storage
Extra padding

When we flipped it and sat on it to test … it was too hard, just not comfy enough for napping.

We added a very cheap camping sleep mat that SELF INFLATES. (As it keeps the thickness to an added inch ….pump up ones are too thick).

We blew extra air into the valve for more stiffness. Then, taped it down to the stapled side of the board. It was very comfy and then ready to staple the pretty fabric of your choice.

Sequestering and closed fabric stores left us with insufficient fabric at hand to finish the project. So we draped a thick tablecloth over it as a temporary cover.

Last step for our DIY Daybed

Before we secured the padded board and self inflating pad to the frame, we pulled the plastic covers over the ends of the frames to meet in the middle and taped them closed with clear packing tape. 

DIY IKEA daybed

If the black plastic foot covers won’t stay in place when you start to “dress” the frames in their plastic covers, goop them in place so the feet ends stay padded and the plastic is not torn by the legs when pulled taut to the middle. 

We chose to use the plastic covers to avoid having to clean dust from under the bed. It also hides the goop or hardware used to secure them together top- to-top. It also creates an clean industrial look we liked. The board can be secured with tape, earthquake goop, or screws to keep it from slipping off the steel frame.

temporary DIY daybed

One could use any combination of tall and short shelves to construct bench seats, a reading nook, etc.

As the plastic cover can be zippered open or not used at all, there is potential storage under the bed by lifting the board.

Hope you like our DIY daybed.

~ by Sillysmartsalgal

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Easy kitchen countertop from an unexpected storage unit

We had space in our kitchen for more counters, but to get the real thing easily cost double or triple this PLATSA hack

This was incredibly easy to assemble, and bonus we can move it around if we wish for a kitchen trolley (which is also double the cost of this hack).

PLATSA kitchen cabinet

I do wonder if we should have gotten locking caster wheels at the hardware store instead of the IKEA legs. But it’s light enough to slide around if we want to. 

IKEA items used: 
IKEA planner
Other materials and tools:
  • None! Just a few screws to attach the countertop is all you need. 

PLATSA for the kitchen: 

1. Use the PLASTA planner tool on IKEA’s website to select what components you want, and get an exact list of the parts you need.

IKEA Planner

I needed more drawers in my kitchen, and wanted the counter to be longer than the unit so I can store things under it. But perhaps you want MORE drawers or cupboards only, or you want a 120cm wide cupboard (or bigger or smaller). It’s very customizable! 

Do not purchase the top board — you’ll be using a countertop instead. 

You MUST choose two 40cm tall components, however. No other combination will create the correct height for a countertop. 

The PLASTA legs are either too tall or too short.

I suspect ANY legs IKEA sells will work, so feel free to choose what matches your decor.

Keep in mind that you want something that is 6-10cm tall. Taller or shorter ones (i.e. any of the PLASTA options) will cause your countertop to be too high or low. 

2. Assemble the PLASTA drawer units per the instructions. Except turn the very top board upside down, as if you are going to attach legs to the top. This will make it easier to screw the counter on.

3. Attach the legs. Although these particular legs were not marketed as being able to go with PLASTA, they attached exactly the same. 

4. Screw on the countertop from below, using the holes intended for the leg screws. I found the angle to be very awkward, and the screws didn’t go all the way in before they started to strip… which is fine for me, it’s attached well enough.

PLATSA kitchen cabinet

Screw the countertop on from below

Installing the countertop

But if I were to do it again, I would probably attempt to attach the counter before assembling the top unit.

Make sure you use screws that aren’t too long – you don’t want them to poke out through the top. 

PLATSA kitchen cabinet

Test the overhang with your drawers. If it’s exactly centered, it is difficult to access the top drawer. We settled on a 3.5cm overhang in front, and the rest in the back.

Because of the extra space in the back, you cannot use the wall anchor points. If you have kids, consider getting some brackets to attach to the back of the counter and attach the the wall. It is not tippy with normal use, but it is light weight and could totally be a problem if you’ve got a climber. 

PLATSA kitchen cabinet

IKEA makes different sizes of this countertop, so choose what fits your space best.

We considered getting two much cheaper LAMPLIG cutting boards (46X53CM – 106cm countertop put together) and attaching them as a top, but ultimately decided we wanted the extra counter space with the overhang from the TOLKEN. 

PLATSA kitchen cabinet
Other useful information:

It cost €127 for the PLASTA components, and €90 for the countertop. Keep in mind that the countertop is designed for a bathroom.

Don’t cut directly on it, and try not to put hot things on it — I don’t know what will happen and I’d rather not learn. 

This configuration is 92cm tall. I was aiming for 90cm, but the extra two aren’t noticeable and it was worth it to me to get the legs that matched my other furniture. 

Hope you like our PLATSA kitchen countertop.

~ by Melissa K. 

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IKEA free backgrounds for more stylish zoom calls

Give your “home office” a virtual makeover with these free zoom backgrounds from IKEA.

Just a few months ago, few of us imagined having a home office, let alone working from home full-time.

But here we are.

We’ve all probably sat in way too many zoom meetings … always tidying up before the call. Quickly, positioning one or two houseplants in frame, so the makeshift “home office” looks more put together.

Backgrounds by IKEA

Well, IKEA knows just the thing to make it all easier — backgrounds to fake your way to a stylish setting.

IKEA has grouped the free-to-download backgrounds into 5 packs: Office, Celebrations, With a View, Romantic and Spaces.

zoom backgrounds from IKEA

In each category, you’ll find a variety of backgrounds to switch to your heart’s content.

So whether you dream of working in a minimalist or hipster office, you’re covered.

zoom backgrounds from IKEA
zoom backgrounds from IKEA

Not only that, there’s more.

In the Celebrations category, there are backgrounds for kids parties or a cozy tête-à-tête.

zoom backgrounds from IKEA
zoom backgrounds from IKEA

In the Romantic pack, create the mood with a cosy balcony setting or fireworks in the sky.

romantic pack
outdoor scene

The “With a View” category is more surreal with dreamy faraway places. The closest thing to travelling. For now.

Using Zoom backgrounds by IKEA

Applying the backgrounds seems easy enough.

First, download the background you want to your computer. You can also hit the “Download them all” button for a zipped folder.

Then, open Zoom and enter Settings.

In the section “Virtual Background”, click the + icon and select the background you want from your computer. (They’ve included a tip to click the uncheck “Mirror my video” or everything will be viewed the wrong way round.)

Now, you’re all set to surprise co-workers and friends with a stylish background on your video call.

The backgrounds are suitable for Zoom and Microsoft Teams.

See all IKEA Zoom Backgrounds here.

All images and video courtesy of Backgrounds by IKEA.

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Q: How to hack a behind the sofa storage?

So I want to copy this behind the sofa storage unit, similar to this image:

behind sofa storage unit

Source: Yellow Brick Home

I had the thought of using the VADHOLMA open storage (20 x 80cm) on both ends, some L brackets and a pre-cut slab of wood.

VADHOLMA open storage

VADHOLMA open storage |

I am a total DIY novice with very basic tools and this seems like it’s too easy. Am I missing something?

Is there something obvious I should be concerned about? I can’t find any information on what the back of the VADHOLMA open storage is, whether it’s thin cardboard or a solid back.

I also realise it’s never going to be flush against the wall as the picture because of the floor baseboard, but is there something else I’m missing?

Thank you!

~ Karen


Hi Karen

You’re on the right track. The plan seems workable.

The thing about hacking, sometimes it is that easy. That said, we’re seldom 100% sure of the results until we start. And then, tweak as we go should we encounter problems.

But like you say, this seems easy enough.

My guess is the back of the VADHOLMA would be similar to the back of most IKEA items — a thin backer board. So, your L-brackets should go onto the frame of the VADHOLMA and not the backer board.

If the frame is too thin to support the L-brackets, forget about them. You can drill from under the top panel of the VADHOLMA into the countertop. (Measure the thickness of the VADHOLMA top panel and countertop and add them up. Get screws shorter than the total height.) Four screws between the holes for the hardware should do it.

It may be easier to make pilot holes on the VADHOLMA and countertop first before assembly. Line both pieces together, mark where the screws should go and drill through both pieces without breaking through to the top of the wood slab.

Then, assemble and screw the top on.

Are you missing anything?

Perhaps this one thing. I’m not sure how far apart you intend to space out the 2 VADHOLMA units along the back of your sofa.

If too far apart, the countertop piece may sag if it’s unsupported in the middle. You may need to add a leg to it.

And of course, adding a bottom piece (similar in length to the countertop) linking the 2 VADHOLMA units will reinforce the entire behind the sofa storage unit. The whole structure would be more sturdy. But if you don’t intend to move it much from its place, it may not be essential.

Hope your project goes as planned.

And of course, for a non-IKEA version, you can see how Kim and Scott of Yellow Brick Home did it.

Happy hacking,


Hacking may compromise the structural integrity of the item, so please be aware of the risks involved before modifying or altering any IKEA product. Alterations and modifications will also void any warranties or return policies you may have received from IKEA. is not liable for any product failure, injury or damage resulting from the application of suggestions, ideas and hacks featured on this site.

The post Q: How to hack a behind the sofa storage? appeared first on IKEA Hackers.